Murchison Falls is built around one piece of geography. The Victoria Nile, already an enormous river, is squeezed through a gorge barely seven metres wide and drops into the gorge below with a force you feel before you see it.
The standard way to experience it is from the water: a launch trip upstream from Paraa to the base of the falls, with hippo, crocodile and elephant along the banks the whole way, then a short walk to the top for the view from above.
North of the river the park opens into broad grassland and borassus palm savannah, which holds the park’s best general game viewing. It is Uganda’s largest park and feels it.
